Ryokami-san (両神山, 1,723 m) is one of the most visually striking mountains near Tokyo — a serrated ridge of chert rock rising above the northern Oku-Chichibu forest in Saitama Prefecture. The mountain has long been a place of religious worship, and small shrines mark its trails. Despite its dramatic profile, the standard route up from Hinata-ōya is a beginner-friendly day hike with a handful of short chain sections, while a separate ridge route offers serious, chain-heavy scrambling for experienced hikers. The name "Both Gods Mountain" is generally traced to the Ryokami Shrine near the summit, which enshrines the creation deities Izanagi and Izanami.
Why Fukada Chose Ryokami-san
Fukada's chapter centers on Ryokami-san as a mountain of religious worship. Ryokami-san is one of the peaks in Kyuya Fukada's Nihon Hyakumeizan ("100 Famous Mountains of Japan"). The book is ordered roughly north to south as a geographic sequence, not as a ranking, and Fukada did not assign official numbers to the mountains.
The peak was a center of Shugendō (mountain ascetic Buddhism), and its shrines carry a tradition of wolf (ōkami) veneration, with wolf stone statues guarding them. Tradition holds the mountain was opened by En no Gyōja, the legendary founder of Shugendō, in the Nara period, and it served as a training ground for ascetics in the Edo period. Geologically, the mountain is known for its sawtooth ridge of chert — hard, finely layered sedimentary rock — which gives Ryokami-san its serrated profile above the Chichibu landscape.
The Mountain
| Item | Detail |
|---|---|
| Elevation | 1,723 m (5,653 ft) |
| Prefecture | Saitama |
| Range | Northern Oku-Chichibu |
| Standard route gain | ~1,093 m (trailhead ~630 m to summit 1,723 m) |
| Technical character | A few short chains on the standard route; a separate ridge route is heavily chain-equipped |
| Book order | Roughly north-to-south sequence, not a ranking |
| Typical season | April – November |
The Routes
Ryokami-san has three main trailheads, ranging from beginner-friendly to experienced-only. Choose based on your scrambling experience.
Hinata-ōya Course (standard)
Grade: Easy / beginner-friendly
- Route: Hinata-ōyaguchi → Kiyotaki-goya hut → summit
- Distance: ~4.6 km one way
- Elevation gain: ~1,093 m (trailhead ~630 m to summit 1,723 m)
- Time: about 3h30m up, 2h30m down (roughly 6 hours round trip)
- Character: A forest trail with sustained climbing and a few short chain sections near the top. The difficulty is low — a good place to experience chains for the first time.
Shiroizashi-shindō Course
Grade: Easy (shortest line)
- Character: The shortest and easiest approach to the summit, with the smallest elevation gain.
- Important access note: This trail is privately managed. It requires advance reservation and a per-person fee. Confirm arrangements before planning around this route.
Hatchō-one Ridge (八丁尾根 / Hatchō-tōge)
Grade: Difficult — experienced hikers only
- Character: A thrilling chain ridge with around 20 chain sites and more than 30 chains installed. This is the genuinely demanding, exposed scrambling line on the mountain, and it is not suitable for beginners.
On the standard and ridge routes alike, stow trekking poles before the chain sections and use chains as handholds rather than footholds. Test each chain's anchor before committing weight.
Getting There
By public transport (year-round):
From Seibu-Chichibu Station, walk to Ohanabatake Station and take the Chichibu Railway to Mitsumineguchi Station (about ¥440). From Mitsumineguchi, ride the Ogano town bus on the "Hinata-ōya / Mitsumineguchi line" to Hinata-ōya-guchi (about ¥400). This bus operates year-round.
By car:
Kan-Etsu Expressway to Hanazono IC, then Route 140 toward the Oku-Chichibu area. Parking at Hinata-ōyaguchi is about ¥500 per day, with a free lot roughly 300 m before the trailhead.
Mountain Huts
Kiyotaki-goya is a hut on the Hinata-ōya course between the trailhead and the summit, marking the main waypoint on the standard route. Confirm current operating status and whether overnight lodging is available before relying on it.
Flora and Wildlife
Asiatic black bears (ツキノワグマ): This is the bear species found across Honshu, including the Oku-Chichibu forest. Chichibu is among Saitama's highest bear-activity areas, and there is a documented attack on the Ryokami trail itself: in May 2016 a hiker was attacked by a bear near Nozoki-iwa and suffered scratches to the face. Carry a bear bell and stay alert in the forest sections.
Akayashio (アカヤシオ): The mountain's signature spring flower is the akayashio, a pink azalea (Rhododendron pentaphyllum) that blooms across the summit area from late April to mid-May. It is followed by yashio-tsutsuji and shakunage (rhododendron) from late May into June.
Autumn colour: The serrated ridge is a famous autumn scene, with mixed broadleaf and maple colour turning across the surrounding forest.
Summit views: On clear days the summit gives a wide panorama including Mt. Fuji, the Yatsugatake, the Alps, and the surrounding Chichibu peaks.
Seasonal Guide
April – May: Akayashio azalea carpets the summit area from late April to mid-May — the headline spring draw. Snow is possible into early April on the upper sections.
June – September: Humid summer. Chain sections require extra care when wet.
October – November: Excellent autumn colour on and around the ridge.
December – March: Snow and ice can form on the chain sections; microspikes are advisable, and many hikers avoid the chains in icy conditions.
Practical Tips for Foreign Visitors
Match the route to your experience: The Hinata-ōya course is genuinely beginner-friendly. Do not confuse it with the Hatchō-one ridge, which is a serious chain route for experienced hikers only.
Reserve ahead for Shiroizashi-shindō: If you want the shortest line, the privately managed Shiroizashi-shindō requires advance reservation and a fee — arrange this before your trip.
Chains: On any chain section, use the chains as handholds, not footholds, and test each anchor before loading it. Gloves help. Stow trekking poles in your pack first.
Oku-Chichibu context: Ryokami-san sits in the northern Oku-Chichibu range. The neighboring Hyakumeizan, Kumotori-yama, falls immediately after Ryokami-san in the book's sequence, and the wider region offers extended multi-peak itineraries.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Ryokami-san a day hike or an overnight trip?
It is a day hike. The standard Hinata-ōya course runs about 3h30m up and 2h30m down — roughly 6 hours round trip — over about 1,093 m of gain, so it is comfortably done in a single day.
Can I reach Ryokami-san without a car?
Yes. From Seibu-Chichibu Station, walk to Ohanabatake Station and take the Chichibu Railway to Mitsumineguchi Station (about ¥440), then ride the Ogano town bus on the "Hinata-ōya / Mitsumineguchi line" to Hinata-ōya-guchi (about ¥400). This bus runs year-round.
Which route should a beginner take?
The Hinata-ōya course. It is rated easy/beginner-friendly, with sustained forest climbing and only a few short chain sections near the top — a good place to try chains for the first time. Avoid the Hatchō-one ridge, which has around 20 chain sites and more than 30 chains and is for experienced hikers only.
When is the best season, and when does the snow clear?
Late April to mid-May for the akayashio azalea bloom across the summit, and October to November for autumn colour. Snow is possible into early April on the upper sections, and ice can form on the chain sections from December through March, when microspikes are advisable.
Are there bears, and what should I carry?
Yes — Asiatic black bears are found across the Oku-Chichibu forest, and Chichibu is among Saitama's highest bear-activity areas. A hiker was attacked near Nozoki-iwa in May 2016. Carry a bear bell and stay alert in the forest sections.
This guide is part of the Japan's 100 Famous Mountains: Complete Hyakumeizan Guide series.
